SF BAY AREA Spotlight: Ad Hoc (Yountville)

Ad Hoc
476 Washington St
Yountville, CA 94599
(707) 944-2487

Open for dinner Thursday through Monday, $45 prix fixe menu (not including wine).
Beginning September 18, 2007, open daily

The Ad Hoc staff listens as Chef Dave Cruz goes over the evening’s menu.
Photo courtesy of John Lee Pictures, http://www.johnleepictures.com

(Original visit: June 6, 2007)

And to think I almost said, “Count me out!” when my friend Grace invited me out to dinner at Ad Hoc.

Anything with Thomas Keller’s name attached to it pretty much guarantees good food. I learned this from my (I think he might be gay) ex-boyfriend – his family is a big fan of The French Laundry and some of the biggest food snobs you will ever meet. You’ve heard of the Laundry and of Bouchon, perhaps you’ve heard of Per Se (in NYC). Led by Executive Chef Dave Cruz, this small restaurant is another hit for Keller with its down-home yet sophisticated take on comfort food.

Interestingly, this restaurant was meant to be temporary (to be open only six months or so), as Keller intended on opening up a place that served burgers and wine. As Ad Hoc became increasingly popular, it was decided that it would become a permanent fixture on Washington Street (next to Bouchon and The French Laundry) and the burger place would open elsewhere. (I’ve heard rumors that this place will be opening in Santa Rosa soon.)

Back to Ad Hoc.

Walking in, it feels like you are having dinner at a friend’s house – except your friend owns a classy, cleverly-lit, hardwood floored home in Wine Country with a giant dining room. The tables have large panels of silver on them that reflect the lighting onto the ceiling – it makes for an interesting shadow dance while people are reaching for food and moving their glasses around. (Tres artsy, no?) Everyone seems to be engrossed in conversation and nonchalantly sipping wine, a must have in this part of town. Wine list – not too long, with some great choices from all over the world AND from local Napa/Sonoma wineries. Tip: If your waiter suggests a wine pairing, if you have the funds, GO FOR IT. I had my first wine pairing epiphany here at Ad Hoc – more about that later.

Ad Hoc does the prix fixe thing – no muss, no fuss, no hemming and hawing over what you’ll be having for dinner. And it’s family style, so going in a group is great. Plus, if you run out of your main course, they will gladly serve you a second helping. The first night we dined, we started with hearts of romaine salad topped with pickled onions, walnuts, and slices of apple with a Roquefort dressing. It was not only delicious, but pretty too – the dressing was to die for. Next came the main course – fried chicken with green bean casserole and potatoes. The fried chicken was not greasy – it was juicy and flavorful (brined to perfection); the green beans were cooked al dente (not mushy like your run-of-the-mill green bean casserole); the potatoes were just right and seasoned with roasted garlic (yum!). Then came the cheese course – a very sharp Wisconsin cheddar served with sliced peach (or maybe it was nectarine) and orange blossom honey. And to top it all off…strawberry shortcake for dessert – a light and airy version of a timeless classic.

The friend who invited Grace and I to dinner spends a lot of time here – so when we walked in, it felt like we were VIPs. We got amazing service from our server, Nessim, and the rest of the Ad Hoc crew (it’s the kind of service that flows with no interruption, you barely notice as your plates are switched out or your glasses are refilled). They were super attentive, professional, and even put up with our raucous group with a smile. The manager from Bouchon and even the great Thomas Keller himself stopped in this evening. I didn’t even notice that our dinner took nearly four hours – we were having such a great time being pampered by the waitstaff that we could have stayed all night.

A month after my initial visit, I made reservations for eight at Ad Hoc for my birthday. Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better than last time, we made another trip to Ad Hoc for my birthday last night, and had “Mar y Montana” – a delicious dish made with poussin (that’s young chicken for those of you who don’t know) and white shrimp. This time, I wasn’t paying as much attention to the names of the courses, I just remember it was another sublime experience. Our server, Peter, recommended a wine for our cheese course that transitioned nicely into our dessert course, where we had a Mascarpone Mousse. And this is where I had my wine pairing ephiphany – the wine made the mousse taste like a smooth, rich chocolate. I’d never experienced wine pairing in action – where the wine brings out a flavor in the food, but this time, the entire table had that experience at the same time. It was amazing.

Go to Ad Hoc. Bring friends. Take your time eating and enjoy every single course, spring for some wine, and thank your servers before you go. It’s worth every penny.

BOOK: The French Chef by Julia Child (1968)

(Book cover from http://www.amazon.com)

I inherited a well-worn copy of this book many years ago from an ex-boyfriend (the same ex who got a copy of The French Laundry Cookbook for Christmas, and never attempted to cook from it during the entire time we were together). Published in 1968, this book was the result of the TV program “The French Chef”, intended to teach as much French cooking technique as could be learned in several seasons of weekly half-hour programs.

Julia Child covers so many French classics: Coq au vin, Quiches, Crepes, Boeuf Bourguignon, Pates, Aspics, Cassoulet, Duck a L’orange, Brioches, Souffle….and goes on to describe techniques such as how to debone a leg of lamb, how to roast a suckling pig, basic sauces (Hollandaise, Bearnaise), blanching bacon, wine storing, chocolate melting, and so much more. I always go back through this book when I need a reference on how to do something. I am hardly a master at French cooking, but with Julia’s helpful hints, I feel much less like une imbecile in the kitchen. This is definitely a “must-have” for any aspiring cook.

SHOP: Artisanal Cheese – Abbaye de Belloc

(Click above image to go to Cowgirl Creamery’s Website)

This sheep’s milk cheese from France is made in the traditional manner by Benedictine Monks at the abbey of Notre-Dame de Belloc, located in the Western Pyrenees. It is a semi-hard cheese with a strong flavor that is smooth, buttery, fruity, and nutty, and has a high fat content. I have learned, thanks to the Cowgirl Creamery website, that the milk for this cheese is brought into the monastery from the neighboring farms. After tasting several cheeses at Cowgirl, this one stood out as one of my personal favorites, just like the cheesemonger gal who sold it to me.

Available through Cowgirl Creamery Artisanal Cheeses, either online or at their store, located at the SF Ferry Building Marketplace.

RECIPE: A page from “Entre Nous” – Gigot d’Agneau

I am not a trained professional. Everything I learned about cooking I learned from my mom, my ex, and TV. Certain things still scare me, like trying to make a souffle, making Hollandaise sauce from scratch, and cooking large pieces of meat in the oven (I just don’t trust myself sometimes). However, there is one dish that I can say that I am able to do well. Gigot d’Agneau – sounds fancy, doesn’t it? I don’t have photos of this one, but trust me, it is quite good, and easy to boot.

Gigot d’Agneau

5 lb. leg of lamb, deboned
6 whole garlic cloves
5 T extra virgin olive oil
herbs & spices (I use Herbes de Provence)
12 small potatoes
8 whole garlic cloves

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Use half the olive oil to coat the lamb, and rub it with garlic. Sprinkly generously with herbs, salt, and freshly ground pepper. Roast the lamb in oven one hour. Drizzle potatoes with remaining olive oil, season generously with herbs, salt, and pepper, and place potatoes and garlic around the lamb. Cook an additional 35-40 minutes, or until lamb is medium rare. Transfer lamp to a serving platter when done. Continue roasting potatoes until browned. Place potatoes and garlic together with the lamb on the platter.

I serve this with haricots vert and braised fennel topped with fresh Gruyere. Be careful not to overcook the lamb (very easy to do). I convinced one of my friends who swore she didn’t like lamb to try it, and she totally liked it. Voila! Crowd pleaser!